The Turkey Diaries: Snippets of Life as an Expat and Retiree

The Turkey Diaries is an ongoing collection of everyday experiences from an expat who has made Turkey home. Rather than focusing on visas, property, or the practicalities of moving abroad, these are the smaller moments that reveal what life here actually feels like. A conversation with a shopkeeper, an unexpected act of kindness, a cultural difference, or simply an ordinary day that becomes memorable. New entries will be added over time, creating a personal record of expat life in Turkey from someone who is actually living it.

A Simple Trip to the Butcher

We were out shopping yesterday, and I stopped at one of my favorite butcher shops to pick up some burgers. There was an entirely new crew behind the counter, and they couldn’t have been friendlier. They asked where I was from and seemed genuinely pleased to learn that I’m a resident of Türkiye.

When I looked into the display case, I didn’t see any burgers, so I asked, “No burgers today?”

“Not at the moment,” they replied. “But we’ll make some for you.”

One of the butchers selected a beautiful cut of beef and asked how many burgers I wanted and how heavy I’d like each one to be. He ran the meat through a grinder reserved exclusively for beef, never lamb, seasoned it, carefully weighed each tennis ball-sized portion, and then pressed them into perfectly formed patties.

Finally, he wrapped each burger individually and handed me the package with a broad smile, clearly taking pride in providing a bit of old-fashioned personal service. It was such a small interaction, but one that reminded me why I enjoy living in Türkiye.

What If My Pet Becomes Seriously Ill in Turkey?

It’s one of those questions you probably don’t think about when considering a move to Turkey: What happens if my pet gets seriously ill? Recently, we found out.

We have two 19-year-old West Highland White Terriers. Yes, 19! They’ve enjoyed life in Turkey enormously, but lately both began showing worrying signs—loss of appetite, weakness, weight loss and lethargy. Fortunately, we found an excellent veterinarian here in Yalıkavak.

What surprised us was just how sophisticated the veterinary care is. The clinic has the kind of equipment you would expect to find in a good pet hospital in the U.S. or Western Europe. Blood tests are done on site, with results in about 30 minutes. Ultrasounds are performed immediately. And just as importantly, the staff is knowledgeable, attentive and genuinely compassionate.

Both of our dogs were diagnosed with kidney disease, complicated by inflammation and infection affecting other organs. At their age, it was frightening. They were seriously ill. But the treatment has worked remarkably well.

Our first patient has finished his treatment and is once again racing around the house doing “zoomies” like a puppy—which is quite a sight when the puppy in question is 19 years old. Our other Westie is nearing the end of his treatment plan, and we’re already seeing a marked improvement.

Living abroad inevitably comes with questions about things we tend to take for granted back home: healthcare, dentists, pharmacies—and, yes, veterinarians. For us, this experience answered one of those questions.

If your four-legged family members are part of your plans for a life in Turkey, don’t be reluctant to bring them along. Excellent veterinary care is available when they need it. And the rest of the time? They seem to enjoy the abundant sunshine and fresh Aegean air every bit as much as we do.

Turkey During the Autumn Shoulder Season

This is my favorite time of year in Yalıkavak. The summer tourist season is over. Traffic is back to normal. Yalıkavak is quiet—not dead, just pleasantly quiet. Most restaurants are still open, and many will remain open throughout the winter.

It’s early October. The high today is 76°F (24°C), and there isn’t a cloud in the sky, almost exactly as I remember it from my first exploratory visit three years ago.

Savvy travelers, particularly those who aren’t tied to school holidays, often skip the peak months of July and August and visit the Turkish Riviera in September and October instead. The crowds have thinned, hotel rates are generally lower, and the weather can be glorious.

The Aegean still sparkles in the sunshine. The Greek islands still hover on the horizon. The shops and markets are still open for business. But everything seems to move at a slightly slower, more civilized pace. For those of us who live here year-round, it’s also the perfect time for a road trip.

Some of Türkiye’s great ancient sites are within reach of Yalıkavak: Ephesus, Stratonikeia and magnificent Aphrodisias among them. Without the intense heat of midsummer, wandering through a 2,000-year-old city becomes considerably more appealing.

If archaeology isn’t your thing, head toward Menderes, just south of İzmir. The area is something of a furniture mecca, with mile after mile of showrooms, workshops and manufacturers offering everything from handcrafted pieces to sleek contemporary designs.

And while you’re in that direction, make a detour to Şirince. This postcard-perfect hillside village, with its cobbled lanes, traditional whitewashed houses, cafés and local wines, offers one of the most charming glimpses of old Aegean village life.

Autumn in Yalıkavak feels like the region has exhaled after a long, busy summer. The sea is still blue, the sun is still warm, and everything that makes this part of Türkiye special is still here. And if it’s too late to plan an autumn trip to the Turkish Riviera this year, don’t despair. Spring brings another sweet spot: May and June offer many of the same pleasures. Sometimes the best time to visit paradise is when everyone else has gone home.

What I Love About Yalıkavak in… October?

Yes, October. It’s the middle of October, and I’m sitting in my villa, cappuccino in hand, gazing through the enormous sliding glass doors at the Aegean Sea and the beautiful landscape.

And suddenly, it strikes me. The quiet. The view. The sunshine. The wonderfully comfortable temperature. It’s one of those moments when you stop whatever you’re doing and think, Wow. I actually live here.

My mind wanders back to my first visit to Türkiye three years ago. It was October then, too, and I remember being equally captivated by the scenery, the weather, and the relaxed pace of life. I had been considering several destinations for retirement, but something about this place just felt right.

That was the trip that settled it. Türkiye would become my new, year-round home. Now that I’ve lived here through all four seasons, I’ve come to appreciate that Yalıkavak has a different personality depending on the time of year.

Winter is quiet and occasionally dramatic, with cool temperatures, blustery winds, and much-needed rain that keeps the hills green. It’s a time for cozy evenings, uncrowded restaurants, and the occasional glorious sunny day that reminds you just how far south you’ve moved.

Spring arrives with an explosion of green hillsides, wildflowers, and increasingly warm days. The outdoor cafés begin to fill, boats return to the water, and there’s a wonderful sense of anticipation as the peninsula prepares for another summer.

And then comes summer itself. This is the Yalıkavak most visitors know. Long, hot, endlessly sunny days. Bustling marinas, crowded beaches, lively restaurants, and an international mix of holidaymakers enjoying everything the Turkish Riviera has to offer. It’s busy, sometimes wonderfully chaotic, and undeniably fun.

But something magical happens as September draws to a close.

The summer crowds gradually disappear. The roads become quieter. Restaurant reservations are easier to come by. The beaches are peaceful again. Yet the sea is still warm from months of sunshine, the days are pleasantly warm, and the skies are often a brilliant blue.

And those of us who live here year-round get to enjoy what feels like a well-kept secret. October may just be the best month of the year in Yalıkavak. There’s something particularly satisfying about having all this beauty without the summer crowds. You can linger over lunch beside the water, wander through town without dodging holiday traffic, or simply sit at home with a cappuccino and marvel at your good fortune.

Of course, I reserve the right to change my mind when May rolls around. Because the truth is, May, June, September, and October are all wonderful months on the Bodrum Peninsula. Each offers much of what makes summer so appealing, but at a gentler, more relaxed pace.

So if you’re planning a visit to the Turkish Riviera, don’t assume that July and August are the only months worth considering. You might discover, as I did, that the quieter seasons are when this beautiful corner of Türkiye is at its very best.

And if you’re thinking about making Yalıkavak your permanent home, here’s a little advice: visit in October. You may find yourself making a rather important life decision. I certainly did.